Every spring, I conduct inventory of my pantry because it’s a good way to see what ingredients need to be cleared out, replaced or used up. I found a bag of hominy that I had been saving for a different maize project that I had abandoned temporarily.
Let’s begin with a few definitions. Hominy is dried maize kernels that have been nixtamalized. Nixtamalization then, is a traditional Mesoamerican process in which these maize kernels are cooked and soaked in an alkaline solution, typically made with calcium hydroxide (commonly known as lime). This treatment softens the kernels, loosens the pericarp (outer hull), and triggers important chemical changes. Notably, it increases the bioavailability of niacin (vitamin B3), enhances protein quality, and improves the maize’s flavor and aroma. After soaking, the kernels—now called nixtamal—are rinsed, de-hulled, and ground into a dough known as masa, which serves as the base for many staples such as tortillas and tamales. This process not only boosts nutritional value but also improves texture and workability in cooking.
When maize made its way to the content of Africa, the process of nixtamalization did not come with it. There are a few theories as to why this may be the case — none of which I can get into here politely. Many communities in Africa have found alternative ways to de-hull maize, the most popular being a giant mortar and pestle. It requires two people, a little bit of water and then the pair moves in tandem — up, down, up down. Sometimes music is used to maintain the rhythm of this process.
Maize is featured in many staple dishes including muthokoi, eaten by the Kamba people. At its simplest, it is made up of hominy, beans, ghee and salt. There are however variations that can include aromatics, spices, and vegetables — of course based on preference. My great grandmother preferred hers with zero fuss and I wonder what she would make of this contemporary version I created, honestly out of sheer curiosity. I think food can be fun and culinary experimentation gives new meaning to playing with our food.
I was thinking of making some type of salad before I settled on this version of muthokoi which can be eaten cold or warm. It includes, with no real measurements just vibes: dried ramp powder, ramp confit oil, homemade mayonnaise, aged sherry vinegar, a soft boiled egg, garnished with wildflowers to add color and contrast, and wildflower salt to taste.